I could write pages and pages about the joys of Israeli food. But I want to focus on one thread in particular. Israeli cuisine has been pushing the envelope for some time in terms of quality. The international culinary community is recognizing that Israel is producing chefs and restaurants that can stand on the world stage. And yet with or perhaps despite this celebrity, even as Israeli chefs innovate and push the envelope on how to interpret and reinterpret regional and cultural culinary traditions, many of their expressions both in terms of dishes and restaurants remain almost defiantly unpretentious. I might even say – rustic.
It’s just a piece of roasted fucking broccoli and yet if you try one thing, this is it.
The tendency when your food gets upscale is for it to get fancy. And I’m not saying there aren’t Israeli chefs who head there. But there is something about a dish being both exquisite and deeply approachable that I find absolutely refreshing. One of the best expressions of that philosophy is Port Said in Tel Aviv by Israeli chef (and food empire builder) Eyal Shani. It’s a sidewalk cafe of sorts tucked in a non-descript alley of a main boulevard in Tel Aviv and you will be delighted.
Minute steak served on tahini with tomato tartar and spicy pepper. Bursting with flavor.Freekeh roasted green wheat, herbs, yogurt. The texture of the wheat was extra light and fluffy. The herbs were bright and clean.Chickpeas from the ancient city, tahini, chopped onion, tomato seeds, spicy pepper. This flavor was perhaps the least bright, but instead of feeling bland, it felt earthy and organic.Bread salad, chunks of challa-bread, vegetables, yogurt. The sweet challah was the star. Perfectly toasted sopping up the dressing and surrounded by the crunch of the vegetables. Simply called “Chicken sandwich” on the menu my daughter ordered it and was deflated when it arrived. She was not expecting chicken salad which has a made a sad reputation for itself back in the United States. However, one bite revealed this version to be a marvel. Warm and savory contrasting with the sweet challah. Just fantastic.Broccoli tree, sour creme. Words won’t suffice. It’s just a piece of roasted fucking broccoli and yet if you try one thing, this is it. I always believe that it’s almost never the ingredient you don’t like, but rather the preparation. Perfectly roasted balance of crunch, crisp, and tender with just the right savory seasonings this is the best Broccoli i’ve ever eaten in my life. Yep. The best.Naked chocolate cake. That’s a dollop of perfect gently sweet whipped cream on the side.Bread pudding. Strawberry. That’s labne on the side of this impossibly moist and dense yet fluffy bread pudding. The sharp-edged caramelized fruit on the top in perfect contrast to the texture of the cake underneath. Malabi. Traditional rose water milk pudding with pistachios. A gift from the chef.
My only regret about our visit was not ordering the Jericho green beans perfumed with garlic, lemon, and olive oil. It showed up at all our neighboring tables in little unassuming bags. We’re going back. I’ll append a picture below.
Port said’s food rivals many super high end fancy dining establishments in terms of simple perfection, but the usual artifacts of high end food (both good and bad) are nowhere in sight. And that is an absolute delight.
